THE WINDWARD FIELD GUIDE · No. 1

Kayaking to the Mokulua Islands

The twin islands in every Lanikai photo are a real paddle away, not just a backdrop. Here is how to do it right: the route, the permit, the rules of the sanctuary, and the handful of things that catch people out.

From Windward Weekly · Facts checked November 14, 2026

The Route

Launch from the designated kayak launch zone at Kailua Beach Park, by the Kaʻelepulu stream. Most people rent in Kailua Town and wheel the kayak to the water on a cart, about a ten minute walk, so nobody has to strap a boat to a car.

From the launch, paddle out past Popoiʻa, Flat Island, about a quarter mile offshore (a good rest stop, and it runs on the same permit), then follow the Lanikai shoreline before crossing the channel to Moku Nui, the larger island on the left as you face them from shore. Land on the sandy beach on the sheltered, Kailua-facing side, where the other kayaks are pulled up. The exact line and landing shift with the day's conditions, which is one reason the guided version exists.

The Rules of the Sanctuary

Both Mokulua islands, and Flat Island too, are Hawaiʻi State Seabird Sanctuaries managed by the DLNR, and the rules are simple but real:

• The permit: landing on Moku Nui requires the $3 per person DLNR landing permit. It comes included with guided tours and self-guided packages, or you add it at rental check-in. DLNR officers patrol, and landing without one can draw a fine of up to $1,500.
• Monday to Saturday only: the state issues no landing permits on Sundays, giving the nesting birds a rest day. You can paddle the bay on Sunday; you just cannot land.
• Moku Iki is closed: the smaller island is off-limits at all times, not seasonally, not for a quick look.
• Stay on the beach: on Moku Nui, keep to the shoreline below the high-water mark. The interior is nesting habitat, and shearwaters burrow in the ground near the vegetation, so watch your step.

What to Look Out For

• The wind is the whole game. Mornings are calm; the trade winds build from late morning into the afternoon, and the paddle home is straight into them. Launch early, and be pointed back toward Kailua by late morning. If the trades are already whitecapping the bay at breakfast, pick another day.
• The landing can thump. Shorebreak on the island beach builds with the swell. Watch a few sets, land where the rental fleets land, and never turn your back on the water while unloading.
• Stay on the beach side. The ocean side of Moku Nui is cliffs and surge channels, a different and much less forgiving place. Everything you came for is on the sheltered side.
• There is nothing out there. No water, no shade, no bathrooms. Bring more water than feels reasonable, a hat, and reef-safe sunscreen (Hawaiʻi law bans the sale of sunscreens with oxybenzone and octinoxate).
• Man-of-war days. On strong trade-wind days, Portuguese man-of-war drift into the bay. Check the water and the sand line before swimming.
• Wildlife has the right of way. Green sea turtles cruise the reef along the way, and monk seals haul out on the island beach to rest. Give seals a wide berth, at least 50 feet, and let them be.
• Nobody is watching the crossing. There are no lifeguards between you and the island. Tell someone your plan, carry a phone in a dry bag, and wear the life vest the rental shop gives you.

Renting, or Going Guided

Kailua Beach Adventures, across from Kailua Beach Park, is the closest rental shop to the launch: kayaks come on carts, the landing permit is handled at check-in, and kamaʻāina save 25% on rentals, see the current offer on our Deals page. Their five hour guided tour to the Mokes includes the permit and a walk around the island's sanctuary edge, and it is the smart first trip for anyone who has not crossed open water before.

The Gentle Version: Flat Island

Same launch, same permit, a quarter mile instead of two and a half. Popoiʻa, Flat Island, is a seabird sanctuary with a small beach, tidepools on calm days and the full Mokulua view without the crossing. For a lot of families it is the perfect first paddle, and the Mokes will still be there when the crew is ready.

Sources: Kailua Beach Adventures, FAQ & permit policy ↗ · KBA's complete guide to the Mokes ↗

The Windward Field Guide · a Windward Weekly publication · presented by My Kailua